Using tank treatments smartly in your RV helps you avoid odors, clogs, and costly repairs — and keeps your setup running clean and easy. Here's how to do it right:
1. Use Enzyme or Bacterial-Based Treatments- These break down solids and toilet paper naturally.
- Look for products labeled "RV-safe" or "septic-safe."
- Avoid harsh chemicals like formaldehyde — they can damage your tank and harm the environment.
- Keep the black tank valve closed until the tank is at least 2/3 full.
- This allows solids to break down and flow out properly.
- Dumping too early leads to the dreaded "poop pyramid."
- After each flush, hold the pedal down for 5–10 seconds to ensure enough water enters the tank.
- When you dump, follow it up with a good rinse using a tank flush system or external hose.
- After emptying and rinsing the tank, close the valve and add:
- A few gallons of fresh water
- A fresh dose of tank treatment
- This keeps your tank lubricated and helps start the next cycle of breakdown.
- Yes — your gray tank can smell too.
- Use a gray tank cleaner or deodorizer, especially if food, grease, or soap builds up.
- Run hot water down the drains and treat it monthly.
Only flush:
- RV-safe toilet paper
- Human waste
- That's it. No wipes, no feminine products, no food — unless you want plumbing issues.
- A few times a year, sanitize both your fresh water and black tanks.
- For the black tank: Fill, add 1/4 cup of bleach, let sit, then rinse thoroughly.
- Make sure all lines are flushed well before reuse.
- Sensors often get gunked up and give false readings.
- Keep them cleaner with regular use of tank treatments and occasional deep cleanings.
- Some RVers use ice cubes + detergent before a drive to help "scrub" the tank as they go.
If you're parking your RV for a while, store your tanks clean and dry, or with a small dose of water + treatment to keep seals moist.